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Chanel Jewelry

by Julie MIALET 16 Jul 2022

From 1932 to today: Chanel Joaillerie remains faithful to the spirit of Coco

In 1910, the first Chanel boutique opened at 21 rue Cambon, initially dedicated to the sale of hats. In 1918, Gabrielle Chanel bought the building at 31 rue Cambon, where she set up her couture workshop. During the 1920’s, the House released its first perfumes and its first make-up collections. 


In 1924, Gabrielle Chanel joined forces with Pierre Wertheimer, a businessman from a merchant family, who helped expand the success of Chanel No. 5. Since that time, the Wertheimer family has owned the company, which is now managed by two brothers, Gérard and Alain Wertheimer. 


In 1932, after being contacted by the Union des Diamantaires, Gabrielle Chanel created her first and only collection of fine jewelry: Bijoux de Diamants. 


In November 1932, Gabrielle Chanel organized an exhibition “Bijoux de Diamants” in her private hotel at 29 Faubourg Saint Honoré in which she presented her creations around 5 themes (the number 5 being her fetish number): the fringe, the feather, the ribbon, the sun and the stars.

The exhibition was a great success, much to the surprise of the jewelers at Place Vendôme who considered Gabrielle Chanel to be a mere dressmaker. These creations revolutionized the jewelry of the time and helped consolidate the codes of the House of Chanel.


“If I chose the diamond, it is because it represents the greatest value under the smallest volume” said Gabrielle Chanel at that time. 


However, Chanel’s House, a fashion specialist, did not launch its jewelry line until 1993. The latter corresponds to the one we know today. It is Karl Lagerfeld who gives the first breath to the House in tribute to Coco Chanel and her creations of 1932.


In 1997 Chanel Jewelry moved to 18 Place Vendôme in Paris, its flagship store today.  


Chanel Jewelry is all made in France to ensure tradition and high precision craftsmanship.  The choice of stones, precious metals and pearls is fundamental to Chanel. 


A real attachment to the founder:


In July 2012, the Chanel jewelry house paid tribute to Coco Chanel on the occasion of the 80th anniversary of the “Bijoux de Diamants” collection with an edition named “1932”, inspired by the original collection. 


The latter takes up the important elements in the eyes of Gabrielle Chanel such as shooting stars, celestial brooches, comets, which can be found in the form of rings, necklaces, earrings, bracelets and tiaras. Chanel is offering a set of 80 original pieces of high jewelry. The “Fringes” theme, present in the historic collection, is reinterpreted in a graphic way thanks to several rows of diamonds that play on the movement and brilliance of the emblematic stone.

1932 Bracelet, made of white gold and diamonds, this bracelet is a tribute to the comet of the 1932 collection. The model wraps around the wrist like the original model created by Gabrielle Chanel. It is a celestial star that contains a 3.07 carat diamond, with a cosmos of approximately 900 diamonds surrounding it.

Shooting star ring


Ribbon Ring

Necklace 1932 : This necklace inspired by the popular bangs of the Roaring Twenties, highlights more than 35 baguette diamonds and 535 brilliant diamonds.


The celestial brooch Haute Joaillerie

This celestial jewel is made of a 79 carat baroque cultured pearl around which concentric rings and nets of stars are surrounded in a movement that seems realistic.


The House has always followed in the footsteps of Coco Chanel, and remains very attached to her.


Indeed, the jewelry collections try to follow her style and offer jewelry that corresponds to the tastes of the founder. That’s why she created the Lion collection referring to her astrological sign. We find through this collection a brooch Lion which is a myriad of white diamonds drawing the head of a lion. We also find necklaces Lion. 

The Camellia signature collection also always refers to Coco Chanel. Indeed, the latter loved the Camellia which reflected in her eyes by simplicity and purity, her philosophy.

Chanel Jewelry today: 


The famous Coco Crush collection, which has been very successful since its creation in 2015 is one of the flagship collections of the house today. This collection is inspired by the quilted design that has been an iconic motif of the House of Chanel since 1955. We find rings, necklaces or even earrings, both in pink gold and yellow or white gold, with or without diamonds. The quilted pattern is in the collection, delicately engraved and modernized on the different pieces. 


Quilting is sensorial with the rounded shapes that define the contours of Coco Crush jewelry.


Ultra Collection: 

The Première watch:


The launch of this watch was a real challenge, rather complicated to achieve given Coco Chanel’s opinion on watches which for her were unattractive and unreadable.

Jacques Helleu was therefore not enthusiastic but finally released the first model of Chanel watch “Première” in 1987 which allowed Chanel to make its entry into the watchmaking market. Its case with its octagonal shape reminds us of the Place Vendôme. The watch bracelet is available in rubber or steel.


The J12 watch, a watchmaking icon. 

It is Jacques Helleu, artistic director of Chanel watchmaking who unveils this model. 

The J12 watch was born in 2000, first available in black and then in white in 2003. This watch with a rather sporty look, with a large and readable dial remains faithful to the values of Gabrielle Chanel. The watch is made of ceramic with high resistance and steel, also proposed in different sizes. 


If you are interested in Chanel jewels, don’t hesitate to discover what les Pierres de Julie have to offer in the store…

We are also available for any free expertise of your sapphire jewelry, for that you can send an email with your photos to

Whether you're interested in buying a piece of jewellery or a stone, a free jewelry appraisal or jewelry resale, Pierres de Julie welcomes you to its Parisian boutique in the Village Suisse, a stone's throw from the Ecole Militaire and the Esplanade des Invalides.

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