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You inherited a ring from your grandmother. Or perhaps you came across a bracelet at a flea dealer in the Village Suisse. In either case, the same question eventually arises: is it really gold? And if so, which type? This is where gold hallmarks come into play—those small marks stamped on jewelry that serve as a precious metal identity card. Guarantee mark, metal fineness, period of manufacture, geographical origin: a hallmark tells a story. For an antique piece of jewelry, knowing how to read it also means knowing what you’re buying. AtLes Pierres de Julie, we believe that a conscious purchase is always a better purchase. Here’s everything you need to know.

Gold hallmark: what exactly are we talking about?

A hallmark, in jewelry and silversmithing, is an official mark stamped on a piece to certify the nature and purity of the metal. In France, this practice dates back to the 14th century, but it was the law of 19 Brumaire Year VI (1797) that truly standardized the system and made it mandatory nationwide. Since then, any item made of precious metal sold in France must bear a hallmark. This is not just a tradition inherited from the past—it is a legal requirement, overseen by the Directorate-General of Customs and Indirect Duties (DGDDI). Far from being a simple decorative logo.

Maker’s mark and guarantee mark: two very different things

There are two main categories of hallmarks on gold jewelry.

The maker’s mark identifies the manufacturer: the jeweler, goldsmith, or jewelry house that created the piece. Its shape is generally a lozenge, featuring the maker’s initials and a personal symbol. It is the artisan’s signature, engraved into the metal for eternity—or almost.

The guarantee mark, on the other hand, is issued by the State after independent verification of the metal’s fineness by a certified assayer. It officially certifies the purity of the gold. For jewelry made abroad and sold in France, this is known as an import hallmark, recognizable by specific symbols such as the owl’s head.

These two hallmarks are complementary: one tells you who made it, the other what it is made of. A piece of jewelry may bear several of them, and this is often the case for high-quality items.

How to read gold hallmarks on antique jewelry

This is often where things get tricky. You hold your antique ring up to the light, squint… and can’t make much sense of it. Yet with a few reference points, reading hallmarks becomes quite accessible—even without formal training as a jeweler.

The eagle’s head: the mark of 18-carat gold made in France

For jewelry made in France, the most common guarantee hallmark for 18-carat gold is the eagle’s head, facing left. This is the hallmark found on the vast majority of high-quality antique French jewelry, from Belle Époque sets to Art Deco creations. It’s quite easy to identify once you know what to look for.

The owl’s head and imported jewelry

Jewelry produced outside France but sold on the French market bears a different import hallmark. The owl’s head has been the symbol for imported gold since 1893. Seeing this hallmark on a piece does not mean it is of lesser quality—it simply indicates that it was not made in France. Jewelry produced in England carries its own national marks (the crowned leopard in London, the anchor in Birmingham) before receiving the French import hallmark upon entering the market.

Where can you find the hallmark on a piece of jewelry?

The location varies depending on the type of jewelry. On a ring, the hallmark is usually found inside the band. On a necklace or chain, it is placed near the clasp. On earrings, the post or the edge of the setting are the areas to examine. A jeweler’s loupe, with at least 10x magnification, remains the essential tool.

Gold 750, 585, 375: what gold fineness really means

Gold fineness refers to its purity expressed in parts per thousand. Pure gold at 100% is not used as-is in jewelry because it is too soft to withstand daily wear. It is therefore alloyed with other metals (copper, silver, palladium depending on the case) to give it strength.

Gold 750 (18 carats): the benchmark value on the French market

18-carat gold, with a fineness of 750, is the most common in French jewelry. This means it contains 750 parts gold out of 1,000 parts metal. It is found in the vast majority of high-quality antique jewelry, and its durability and rich color make it the benchmark standard of the vintage jewelry market.

Gold 585 (14 carats) and gold 375 (9 carats)

Gold 585 (14 carats) is very common in jewelry produced in Central and Northern Europe, as well as in the United States. Gold 375 (9 carats) is more of a British specialty. These fineness levels are perfectly legal, carry their own official hallmarks, and in no way mean the jewelry is of poor quality. Simply, the gold content is lower, and therefore the intrinsic value of the metal as well. This is an important factor to keep in mind when buying or reselling.

Gold hallmarks and the value of antique jewelry

For a collector’s item or inherited piece, the hallmark plays a much broader role than simply certifying metal purity. It becomes a dating tool, sometimes a factor in valuation, and in certain cases a true indicator of identity.

Dating jewelry through hallmarks: Belle Époque, Art Nouveau, Art Deco

Reading hallmarks makes it possible to place a piece in time with often remarkable precision. French guarantee hallmarks have changed design several times throughout history. The shape of the maker’s mark (oval, lozenge, rectangle), the graphic style of the initials, and the design of the guarantee mark all provide clues about the period of manufacture. A properly hallmarked and identifiable Belle Époque (1890–1910) or Art Deco (1920–1940) piece can see its value increase significantly compared to an undated item.

The great Parisian houses (Cartier, Chaumet, Boucheron, or Mellerio) have their own maker’s marks, recognizable to connoisseurs. A piece bearing one of these marks is a collector’s item in its own right, whose value far exceeds that of the metal alone.

A piece of jewelry without a hallmark: what should you do?

A piece without a visible hallmark is not necessarily counterfeit. The hallmark may have worn away over time, especially on very old pieces predating the 1797 regulation. It may also have disappeared during repair or resizing. A gemological test (nitric acid test or X-ray fluorescence spectrometry, known as XRF) can then determine the nature of the metal with precision. An experienced jeweler or certified assayer will be able to guide you to the right experts.

However, keep in mind: a piece without a hallmark is systematically harder to value for resale. A serious buyer will discount it due to the lack of official guarantee. This is a market reality to consider from the moment of purchase.

Buying hallmarked gold jewelry in Paris: best practices

Paris remains one of the leading centers for antique jewelry in Europe. The Village Suisse area, near the Eiffel Tower and Place de Breteuil (15th arrondissement), offers a very reputable selection of vintage and antique jewelry. But to make the most of it, you need to know what you’re looking at.

Here are the key points to check before purchasing antique gold jewelry:

• The presence of a guarantee hallmark and the metal fineness: 750 for 18-carat gold, 585 for 14 carats, 375 for 9 carats

• The existence of a maker’s mark, to identify the manufacturer or jewelry house

• Consistency between the hallmark shape and the period stated by the seller

• The legibility of the hallmark under magnification (a faint or damaged mark requires further verification)

• In case of doubt about authenticity, seek the opinion of an independent expert, certified gemologist, or auction house

For valuable pieces (signed jewelry from major houses, inherited sets, vintage high jewelry), consulting a recognized auction house such as Drouot can be very helpful in obtaining a reliable professional appraisal.

Gold hallmarks, as discreet as they may be, are true passports: they certify the purity of the metal, bear the artisan’s signature, and allow pieces to travel through time with a verifiable identity. For antique jewelry, knowing how to read them means avoiding unpleasant surprises—and sometimes uncovering a remarkable story. At Les Pierres de Julie, each piece is carefully selected and its hallmarks verified before being offered for sale.

Do you have a piece of jewelry to appraise or a question about a hallmark? The selection of hallmarked vintage jewelry from Les Pierres de Julie awaits you in Paris, just steps from the Village Suisse and the Eiffel Tower.