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Pomellato: The Story of a Milanese Jewellery House Between Colour, Boldness and Craftsmanship

Founded in Milan in 1967 by Rino Rabolini, Pomellato is today one of the most iconic names in Italian jewellery. Within just a few decades, the house profoundly reshaped the codes of jewellery by introducing a much freer, more contemporary and colourful approach.

At a time when precious jewellery was still primarily associated with special occasions, Rino Rabolini imagined a new way of wearing fine jewellery: precious pieces designed to accompany women in their everyday lives, combining modern shapes, bold colours and generous gemstones.

This philosophy would give rise to what became known as “prêt-à-porter” jewellery.

Pomellato’s DNA : Free-Spirited and Colourful Jewellery

From its very beginnings, Pomellato stood out through a highly distinctive aesthetic.

The house placed coloured gemstones, generous volumes and daring colour combinations at the heart of its creations. Rather than focusing exclusively on diamonds, Pomellato gave an essential role to fine and ornamental gemstones.

Amethyst, topaz, peridot, citrine, smoky quartz, prasiolite, rose quartz, amazonite, lapis lazuli, malachite, turquoise, chalcedony, tourmaline, garnet, rhodochrosite, rhodonite, jasper, agate, tiger’s eye, zoisite and brown diamonds are among the many stones that have appeared in the house’s creations.

Pomellato also plays with different cuts and finishes to reveal the colour and natural character of each gemstone to its fullest.

Cabochon gemstones occupy a particularly important place in the Pomellato universe. Polished rather than faceted, cabochons highlight the depth, transparency and natural nuances of the stones.

This spectacular use of coloured gemstones has become one of the defining characteristics that makes Pomellato jewellery instantly recognisable.

A New Way of Wearing Fine Jewellery

One of Pomellato’s greatest innovations lies in its relationship with everyday life.

Jewellery was no longer reserved exclusively for ceremonies or evening wear. It became a genuine fashion accessory, to be worn, mixed and layered according to one's personal style.

This idea of layering became particularly important with several of the house’s collections. Multiple rings could be worn together, combining different colours, gemstones and volumes.

This freedom of expression remains one of the defining characteristics of Pomellato jewellery today.

The Ritratto Collection : The Power of Gemstones

Among Pomellato’s most iconic collections, Ritratto holds a special place.

The collection showcases large gemstones, often cut as cabochons, held in particularly substantial claws, sometimes entirely pavé-set with diamonds.

The setting itself becomes an integral part of the design.

The generous proportions of the gemstones and the sophisticated settings give Ritratto rings a spectacular presence, while retaining the elegance characteristic of the Milanese house.

These creations are particularly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts of coloured gemstones and signed vintage jewellery.

Nudo : One of Pomellato’s Iconic Signatures

In 2001, Pomellato launched the Nudo ring, which would quickly become one of the house’s most recognisable designs.

Its concept is based on a coloured gemstone highlighted by a minimalist setting. The stone appears to simply rest on the finger, almost suspended above the band.

Amethysts, quartz, topaz, prasiolite, citrine and many other gemstones have been incorporated into the collection in an extraordinary range of colours.

The Nudo ring perfectly embodies the Pomellato philosophy: a spectacular gemstone, a contemporary design and a piece of jewellery made to be worn every day.

Its success also helped popularise the idea of wearing several Nudo rings stacked together, creating a playful combination of colours and materials.

The Orsetto : The Little Bear That Became an Icon

Another emblematic creation of the house, the Orsetto pendant was launched in 1988.

This articulated little gold bear, both playful and precious, illustrates another side of Pomellato: its ability to introduce an emotional and almost whimsical dimension into fine jewellery.

Thanks to its articulated construction and sophisticated goldsmithing, the Orsetto quickly became a sought-after collector’s piece.

Like many Pomellato creations from the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s, these vintage jewels reflect a particularly creative period in the history of the house.

Rose Gold : Another Pomellato Signature

Pomellato is distinguished not only by its gemstones, but also by its gold alloys.

Rose gold has become one of the defining elements of the house.

Rino Rabolini wanted to develop a metal whose colour would complement the wide variety of gemstones used throughout Pomellato’s collections. The house therefore worked on its own alloy compositions to create a warm, luminous shade of rose gold that became instantly recognisable.

Combined with purple amethysts, smoky quartz, blue topaz or green gemstones, this rose gold creates the striking colour contrasts that are so integral to Pomellato’s aesthetic language.

A Deeply Milanese Craftsmanship

Behind the apparent simplicity of some Pomellato designs lies a remarkable level of technical expertise.

Pomellato jewellery is crafted in Milan by specialised artisans and goldsmiths. The Casa Pomellato continues to preserve the Italian goldsmithing tradition while incorporating contemporary techniques and solutions.

Working with gemstones requires exceptional precision. Large cabochons, in particular, must be perfectly proportioned to their settings, while the mounting must securely hold the stone without competing with its natural colour and presence.

This combination of design, craftsmanship and gemmological expertise is part of what makes Pomellato jewellery so distinctive.

Pomellato and Artists : A House Open to Creativity

The house has also always maintained close links with the worlds of art and design.

This openness is reflected in various collaborations with artists and designers, who have helped enrich Pomellato’s aesthetic vocabulary over the decades.

This relationship between jewellery, sculpture and contemporary art partly explains why certain Pomellato creations transcend their role as accessories to become genuine collectible objects.

Pomellato and the Transmission of Craftsmanship

The house’s commitment to craftsmanship can also be traced back to Rino Rabolini’s family background as part of a family of goldsmiths.

Pomellato has therefore invested in preserving and passing on jewellery-making skills through initiatives such as the Pomellato Virtuosi programme, designed to support the training of a new generation of artisans.

Preserving traditional goldsmithing and jewellery-making skills is particularly important at a time when many specialised crafts are becoming increasingly rare.

Pomellato and Responsible Jewellery

The house has also committed to improving the responsibility and transparency of its supply chain.

Pomellato has notably focused on the use of gold sourced responsibly, as well as improving the traceability of its raw materials and gemstones.

The aim is to better understand the origins of the materials used to create its jewellery and to encourage more responsible practices within the jewellery industry.

Pomellato and the Kering Group

After achieving significant international growth, Pomellato joined the Kering Group in 2013, one of the world's leading luxury groups.

The house has continued to expand internationally while preserving its Milanese identity and its aesthetic language centred around coloured gemstones, gold and sculptural forms.

Pomellato therefore occupies a unique position among major jewellery houses: its visual identity remains immediately recognisable, even when looking at pieces from earlier collections.

Why Is Vintage Pomellato Jewellery So Highly Sought After ?

Pomellato creations from the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s are increasingly attracting collectors and enthusiasts of vintage jewellery.

Several factors explain this growing interest:

• A strong and instantly recognisable aesthetic;
• Distinctive and easily identifiable designs;
• An exceptional use of coloured gemstones;
• The characteristic volumes of Italian jewellery;
• The quality of Milanese craftsmanship;
• Iconic collections that have become highly sought after;
• The opportunity to find vintage designs that are no longer produced.

A signed vintage Pomellato jewel can therefore represent an appealing collector’s piece, particularly when it is in excellent condition, accompanied by its original documentation and belongs to a sought-after collection.

Identifying the model, production period, hallmarks, signature and materials is essential when determining its value accurately.

Pomellato: A Distinctively Milanese Signature

More than half a century after its creation, Pomellato continues to embody a particular vision of Italian jewellery: free-spirited, colourful, bold and deeply rooted in traditional craftsmanship.

From the imposing cabochons of Ritratto to the sophisticated simplicity of Nudo, and the iconic Orsetto, Pomellato’s creations have left a lasting mark on the history of modern jewellery.

Jewellery designed to be worn, collected and passed on.

Les Pierres de Julie : Pomellato Vintage Jewellery and Expertise in Paris

At Les Pierres de Julie, we particularly appreciate Pomellato creations for their personality, their exceptional use of gemstones and their unique place in the history of Italian jewellery.

Julie Mialet, a qualified gemmologist and specialist in antique, vintage and signed jewellery, carefully selects pre-owned pieces for their quality, authenticity and gemmological interest.

Do you own a Pomellato ring, bracelet, necklace or signed Pomellato pendant and would like to learn more about its history or value?

Les Pierres de Julie also offers free jewellery appraisals, including for signed jewellery and creations by major jewellery houses.

For an appraisal enquiry, you can contact us and send several photographs of your jewellery.

The Les Pierres de Julie boutique is located in the Village Suisse in Paris, close to the École Militaire and the Esplanade des Invalides, in a neighbourhood historically associated with Parisian antique dealers and art and jewellery specialists.