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The ruby, this blood-red gem that makes the hearts of collectors and lovers of vintage jewellery beat faster, tells a thousand-year-old story of passion and royalty. A Chromium-tinted precious corundum, it fascinates with its exceptional hardness and its hypnotics crimson shades . The birthstone of July, symbolising ardent love and divine protection, the ruby transcends the ages. Its incomparable brilliance and symbolic significance make it much more than just a precious stone – it is a talisman imbued with energy and esoteric tradition. Here is our comprehensive guide to discovering the properties and meanings of rubies.

The fascinating history of vintage ruby jewellery

Since ancient times, rubies have been regarded as the stone of kings and emperors. In the 13th century, Saint Louis is said to have owned a ‘large ruby in the shape of a half-bean’, according to official documents. This blood-red gem adorned royal crowns and cardinal rings, the ultimate symbol of power and divine passion.

Burmese warriors had a rather unusual practice: they embedded rubies under their skin, convinced that this fusion with the stone would make them invincible in battle. In China, merchants traded these precious stones along the Silk Road, using them to adorn their protective swords. This warrior tradition reflects a deep belief in the protective properties of rubies.

Dior ring

Rubies in Art Deco and Belle Époque jewellery

The golden age of vintage ruby jewellery coincided with the Art Deco and Belle Époque periods. Designs from this era boldly combined the deep red of rubies with old-cut diamonds, creating striking contrasts. Marguerite rings, with their central ruby surrounded by diamonds, became the ultimate expression of Parisian refinement.

Elizabeth Taylor, a glamorous icon if ever there was one, collected rubies with a consuming passion. Her Cartier ruby and diamond necklace, initially estimated at between 200 000 and 300 000 dollars, sold for 3 778 500 dollars at Christie's auction in 2011. This is striking proof that antique ruby jewellery never loses its value – quite the contrary.

The significance of ancient rubies in different cultures

The ruby carries a symbolism as rich as its colour is intense. In ancient times, the colour of stones played a huge role in the powers attributed to them. For example, the red of the ruby was believed to improve resistance to poisons and promote romantic passions.

Rubies in Eastern tradition

In Sanskrit, the ruby is called "ratnaraj", literally ‘king of precious stones’. This name is not insignificant: in Indian culture, wearing a ruby confers divine protection and attracts prosperity. Ancient texts attribute to it the power to dispel the darkness of the soul and illuminate the spiritual path.

Chinese tradition closely associates rubies with dragons, mythical creatures symbolising supreme strength and extraordinary luck. Noble families would offer rubies at births to ensure longevity and happiness for the child.

How to recognise a genuine vintage ruby jewel

Authenticating an antique ruby requires a trained eye and some essential knowledge. Unlike too perfect modern syntheses, natural rubies have natural inclusions – those little gardens inside that give them their charm and prove they're the real deal.

The first synthetic ruby (a stone created entirely in a laboratory) was created in 1902 by Auguste Verneuil. As with sapphires, this fusion method can be recognised under a magnifying glass by rounded, curved growth zones. These zones can exist in natural stones, but they will be straight. These synthetic stones are now widely used in watchmaking.

Why are rubies red ?

The characteristic red colour comes from the presence of chromium in the crystal structure of corundum. The varying levels of this chemical element cause the colours of this precious stone to vary. The higher the concentration of chromium, the more intense and deeper the red will be.

The shades can vary from pale pink to pigeon blood red, the legendary colour of Burmese rubies considered to be the most valuable. A high-quality ruby generally has 80% pure red and 20% secondary shades – pink, orange or purple.

Distinctive features of antique rubies in jewellery

Vintage rubies are distinguished by several characteristics :

• Old cut: Vintage cutting techniques create facets that differ from modern cuts, often with a smaller table and a deeper pavilion.

• Handcrafted setting : The prongs and bezel settings of antique jewellery reveal meticulous craftsmanship.

• Natural patina : Old rubies develop a subtle patina that gives them a unique lustre.

• Characteristic inclusions : Burmese rubies often feature ‘silk’ inclusions, fine needles of rutile that create a velvety effect.

• Fluorescence : Under UV light, Burmese rubies emit an intense red fluorescence.

Where the finest rubies come from: geographical origin and value

The origin of a ruby significantly influences its value and characteristics.

The legendary rubies of Burma

The Mogok Valley in Burma (Myanmar) has been producing the world's most coveted rubies for centuries. These ‘pigeon blood’ stones have a deep red colour with a hint of blue, creating the hypnotic hue sought after by all collectors. Their unique geological formation, in metamorphic marble, gives them unrivalled purity and luminosity.

How to care for an antique ruby : practical advice

A vintage ruby jewel deserves special care to ensure it passes down through the generations without losing its lustre. Although ruby is the second hardest stone after diamond, a few precautions are necessary.

Cleaning vintage ruby jewellery

To safely clean your antique rubies, use lukewarm soapy water.

A soft toothbrush allows you to reach into corners without risking loosening the stones.

Protection and preservation of vintage rubies

We always recommend that you remove your jewellery before doing housework. Store it individually in fabric-lined boxes to prevent scratches.

Regular checks at your jeweller's will allow you to check the settings and prevent the loss of a stone. The prongs on antique jewellery can wear out over time and require the setting to be checked.

The value of vintage ruby jewellery: investment and collection

The market for antique rubies is experiencing steady growth. Vintage pieces, particularly those signed by major jewellery houses, are seeing their value skyrocket at auctions.

What is the price of a ruby per carat ?

Prices vary considerably depending on the quality, origin and treatment of the stone. A high-quality untreated Burmese ruby can fetch tens of thousands of euros per carat. African rubies offer more affordable value for money, with beautiful stones costing between €3,000 and €8,000 per carat.

Vintage jewellery adds historical and artistic value. An Art Deco ring with a 2-carat ruby can be worth much more than the sum of its parts, especially if it comes from a prestigious house.

How can you tell if a ruby is genuine or treated?

The majority of rubies on the market undergo heat treatment to improve their colour and clarity. This heating, which is tolerated in the trade, can nevertheless be specified verbally. Unheated rubies, which are extremely rare, especially if they weigh more than 5 carats, are considerably more expensive.

While heating rubies is tolerated, any other form of treatment must be declared and specified on the invoice.

A gemmological certificate from a recognised laboratory (GIA, SSEF, Gübelin, LFG, Gem Paris or Carat Gem Lab) remains the ultimate guarantee of authenticity. For antique jewellery, the expertise of a professional specialising in vintage items is essential.

Tips for buying vintage ruby jewellery

Buying a vintage ruby is not something to be done on impulse. A few golden rules will help you avoid disappointment and ensure you make an informed purchase.

First, carefully examine the colour under different lights. A high-quality ruby retains its intense red hue, especially under artificial lighting. Be wary of stones that are too light or too dark, as they lose their lustre in the evening.

Next, check the condition of the setting and the strength of the prongs. Antique jewellery has been through a lot, and its mountings may need restoration. Don't hesitate to ask for a magnifying glass to examine the details – a reputable seller will offer one to you spontaneously.

Rubies are ultimately much more than just stones. At our Parisian boutique Les Pierres de Julie, nestled between the Eiffel Tower and the Swiss Village, we handle these scarlet wonders every day, set in antique rings and vintage necklaces. If you wish to purchase or sell vintage jewellery featuring rubies, we strongly advise you to choose specialist boutiques that offer certificates of authenticity and guarantees. AtLes Pierres de Julie, Each piece is appraised and accompanied by its documented history.

We are also available to provide a free appraisal of your ruby jewellery. To request this, please send an email with photos tocontact@lespierresdejulie.com.